From: Grill Magazine August 2006

Midwinter heralds the beginning of the prime oyster gathering season around the country, so it was the perfect time for the grill team to line up a range of these evocative molluscs from various parts of the country. Our tasting team approached the task with enthusiaism, the idea of tasting such a selection of oysters being as close to heaven as those who love them ever get.
The team on the tasting panel at the NZ Restaurant Association's facility 'taste' in Mt Eden, Auckland was:
John Clarke, ex chef, farmer, food resource writer for grill.
Paul Hooton, sous chef at Euro, Auckland, dedicated palate wielder, oyster lover. consummate professional.
Chris Heaphy, artist, a Ngai Tahu man with a Bluff whakapapa, a keen culinary sensibility and an abiding love of oysters.

The tasting was conducted blind, with the oysters delivered to tasters in no particular order, in twos so that variation between individual oysters could be assessed. All were ordered as fresh.
Half of the samples were supplied in the half shell, while half were shelled and packed in pottles. These differences are indicated in the results below.
Overall the standout sample was Clevedon Coast Pacifics from the Hauraki Gulf, which was given unanimous support from all panel members. Also highly rated were Bay of Islands Pacifics and Kaipara Pacifics, but all displayed different taste and texture characters which are to be expected of oysters but are rarely recorded. For this reason, both professional tasters considered the experience a worthy one, and one that should be repeated every oyster season. Food for thought at grill.

Results of the oyster tasting

Top oyster

Hauraki Gulf Pacific Oysters

-on half shell, supplied by Clevedon Coast Oysters, Auckland.
Big, robust smelling oysters, just a little touched by fridge smell, but richly flavoured, strong and intense. Low salt and a hint of weed, but texture is perfect and the sense of cleanliness strong.
Best served natural.

Also outstanding

Bay of Islands Pacific Oysters

-on half shell, supplied by Wah Lee, Newmarket, Auckland.
Intense smell hints at kina and the flavour is similarly strong and intense with excellent texture. Of particular note with all tasters was the high level of sweetness and an almost fruity character. Lingering sea/ mineral/salt flavour impressed and overall impression was of especially 'yummy' oysters. The small size and intensity of flavour made one taster comment on the possibility these were New Zealand native rock oysters, not Pacifics.
Best served natural.

Very good

Kaipara Pacific Oysters

shelled in pottle, supplied by Mangere Bulk Seafoods, Auckland.
Strong smelling oysters with attractive black collars and firm, fresh texture. Smelt slightly minerally and the flavour intensity was excellent, with a mineral/iron character noted by two of the panel. Also comments about a mealy/whole grain flavour detail and all commented on the long, slightly
creamy, ocean-like aftertaste. Best served natural.

Whangaroa Pacific Oysters

on half shell, supplied by Sanford, Auckland.
Very large with a fresh, earthy, "mangrove" smell. Texture is lightly creamy and flavour is strong and very salty with a long, minerally aftertaste. A very satisfying oyster, just behind the top two in intensity, and the large size was somewhat overwhelming as a natural oyster.
Best served tempura.
Good

Coromandel Pacific Oysters

on half shell, supplied by NZ Wholesale Seafoods, Auckland.
Smelled a little old and slightly muddy to all tasters, and one panel member did not actually like the flavour, although he was not prepared to reject the sample. The other two liked both the firm texture and strongish flavours, although the flavour muddiness reduced the oysters' usefulness to deep frying options.
Best served battered and fried.

Bluff Flat Oysters

shelled, in pottle, supplied by Anton's Seafoods, Auckland,
The only negative comment was that there was some inconsistency between the two samples for all tasters. At best they smelled clean and subtle, distinctly sweet. The texture was invariably good, with a firm bite. but while some were sweet and creamy, others were bland and slightly milky, leaving a soft, unfresh aftertaste. Questions about variability of quality raised doubts about the integrity of the original supplier was the variation down to mixing fresh and less fresh oysters in the same batch?
Best served natural for the good ones, not at all for the others.

Nelson Flat Oysters

shelled in pottle, supplied by Anton's Seafoods, Auckland.
The problem with this sample was that 'in spite of generally positive comments about the flavour of the oysters, the texture raised questions about whether the fish had been frozen. The flat, dull smell tended to suggest this was the case, but the sweet, strong, slightly earthy flavour found support from all tasters.
served Kilpatrick.

Coromandel Pacific Oysters

shelled in pottle, supplied by Sea Products, Auckland.
Small oyster, with a salty, clean sea smell. Soft texture detracted from the generally pleasant, but light flavour, as did a sandy character. Slightly sour aftertaste. In general, a pass mark.
Best served cooked in some form.